Ice Guide : Southcentral : South Anchorage : Turnagain Arm : PFM

PFM

Rating: WI4/5
Length: 30 meters

PFM Wall (often called Weeping Wall) offers numerous ice and drytool routes for those looking to push the limits. Rock and ice protection is good to have on hand as these routes are not usually for beginners.

This route is defined as a large hanging cicle (left in picture) that often requires some drytooling to access. Climb through a bolt or two (some rusted and/or covered by ice) and access hanging cicles.  Once above the cicle, some fat and less difficult ice prevails. Beware of bad rock.

FA: Graham McDonald & Ernie Borjon, 1981

Anchor/descent: Alders exist at the top of a few climbs, so it is recommended to bring v-thread material.


View Turnagain Arm Ice Climbs in a larger map

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Drive approximately 3.5 miles south on the Seward Highway. Following the exit to McHugh Creek is a large pullout on the mountain side of the highway. Park in the pullout then pick your route while your belayer thanks you for getting them out of traffic.

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