Ice Guide : Southcentral : Matanuska River : Caribou Creek : A Question of Balance

A Question of Balance

Rating: WI4+
Length: 45 meters

A testy and scenic climb located 50 yards upstream of Stratus. Icicles hang from a stone roof like teeth. The crux is a 50' free pillar 5' thick and 10' wide at the bottom with a quarter inch crack about halfway up the pillar. A patient and delicate technique is preferred. As Martin said "it shook like a rubber band".

FA: Wayne Mushrush & Martin Martinez, 1990

Anchor: Rap from thread, bollard, rock pro, or ice gear.

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Approximately 3 miles up the canyon one will come to a high rock alcove where these routes come out of the wall. This is the route on the right tht forms less frequently.

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