Ice Guide : Southcentral : South Anchorage : O'Malley Peak : Black Lake

Black Lake

Rating: WI5, mixed
Length: 250 meters

The conditions of the route can vary depending on the amount of ice. Be prepared for a committing lead through mixed terrain with tricky rock pro placements. If ice exists, conditions are usually thin. Bring a full rack of ice and rock pro and be prepared for every kind of placement. Some permanent pro does already exist, but it is not enough for an ascent.

FA:

Anchor/descent: Pitons could be nice for a rappel. Material for a V-thread could also be useful. Be prepared for every contigency.

ALERT: The conditions in the saddle can be prone to slide. Be aware of the snow conditions before venturing in this area.


View O'Malley Peak Ice Climbs in a larger map

Lat: 61 3.665' North
Long: 149 35.997' West

The approach to the climb near Black Lake can be made several ways but the most direct is to take the steep trail up to the saddle that leads into the Ballfield. Take the first turnoff of the Powerline Pass Trail at the trail marker, cross the river bridge, and head towards the saddle. Once over the saddle, take the Ballfield Trail west. The trail drops down over a steep descent to Black Lake.

Send us your video of this climb.

Photo: Neil Huddleston