Ice Guide : Southcentral : North Anchorage : Pioneer Peak : Devil's Club

Devil's Club (aka Eklutna Tailrace)

Rating: WI3/4
Length: 35 meters

The climb begins with a 25 meter, nearly vertical curtain. After the curtain more moderate ice may or may not lead to more adventures up the hillside. (Note - we at have not climbed beyond the first curtain nor has anyone from the public advised us of what type of ice is beyond.) This climb appears to be first documented in Martin Martinez's historical guide on Southcentral.

FA: Martin Martinez, 1994

Anchor:A selection of trees and alders exist at the top of the first curtain.

View Pioneer Peak Ice Climbs in a larger map

Lat: 61 28.576' North
Long: 149 08.503' West

Exit the Glenn Highway and head east on the Old Glenn Highway approximately 4 miles to the Lat/Long position above, which is just east of the Eklutna Power Plant. Park the vehicle on the road shoulder (as far away from traffic as possible) and hike the small drainage approximately 150 meters into the trees and devils club until you reach the base of the climb. (Note - depending on snow conditions, this route may or may not be visible from the road.)

Send us your video of this climb.