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Portage River Ice Climbing - Dreams of Brown Moose

Rating: WI4 
Length: 160-170 meters, 3 pitches
FA: Jim Hale & Gary Bocarde, 1975*

Lat: 60º 46.370' North
Long: 148º 51.760' West

**WARNING***
Dreams of Brown Moose is within a large avalanche chute.  Know your surroundings and be aware of the snow conditions before venturing on to this route!

Access: From the Seward Highway take the Portage Valley Road as if going to Whittier.  Drive approximately 5 miles to the turnoff for the Begich, Boggs Visitor Center.  Dreams of Brown Moose is south of the visitor center and located high on the mountain under and/or within a large avalanche chute.  From the parking lot hike through brush until you reach the base of the chute.  Ascend the chute until you reach the ice.

Route: Climb relatively easy WI2-3 for a pitch until you reach a ledge. From the ledge climb another 60m - 70m of WI3-4 to the top of another step.    The third pitch will take you through more sustained WI3-4 to a two bolt pin anchor.  This last pitch can be long depending on where the belay is set up.  If you are climbing with 60 meter ropes, locate the belay to provide as much rope as possible for the leader on this last pitch.

Anchor: Little vegetation exists below the bolt-pin anchor, so make sure to bring v-thread material for the descent. 

* - Information taken from Fat City and Urban Ice with permission from author.

 

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above: Dreams of Brown Moose.
photo: Burrell Lindell Nickeson.

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