Ice Guide : Southcentral : North Anchorage : Eklutna River : Eklutna Canyon : Eklutna Canyon Crack

Eklutna Canyon Crack

Rating: Mixed
Length: 15 meters

Climb through several short moves to gain access to the crack proper. Climb through an arching crack of good quality with nice tool cams to gain access to the lip above. Climb over the lip and through Class 4 to the anchor above. This climb takes gear well and small gear up to a size 2 Camalot is recommended.


Anchor: A solid tree above the crack proper is available for the anchor. This anchor can be reached from a walk up just east of the route to set up a top rope.

Alert: The Eklutna Canyon drainage is private property belonging to Eklutna Incorporated and their website indicates ice climbing is not allowed on their property. It is strongly suggested that before venturing into the canyon, check with the climbing groups within the community regarding the current access status for the canyon. Alaska State Parks require vehicles parking in the Thunderbird Falls Trailhead parking lot to have a current Alaska State Parks parking pass.

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After a 30-45 minute hike up the canyon, one will find Ripple. After Ripple on the opposite side of the canyon (north), this short crack route comes into view.

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Chris Lindsey on the Eklutna Canyon Crack.  Photo: Scott Rader