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Eklutna Glacier Ice Climbing

At the back of the Eklutna Lake, many climbs exist near the terminus of the Eklutna Glacier.  This area can be an awesome adventure for those looking for a weekend trip.  Unless you have transportation, be prepared for a long approach.  From the time one leaves the car at the parking lot until reaching the climbing area, one will have traveled 10 plus miles.

The Serenity Falls public use hut is available at the back of Eklutna Lake near the climbs.  The hut can be reserved through the Department of Natural Resources, Division of Parks and Outdoor Recreation.  It is a wonderful location to kick back after a hard day of climbing. 

From Anchorage, take the Glenn Highway north to the Thunderbird Falls exit. Take the exit and go past the Thunderbird Falls Trail parking lot.  Cross the Eklutna River bridge and turn right on the Eklutna Lake Road.  From the north, exit at the Eklutna Lake exit, cross the highway, turn right on the access road, and left on the Eklutna Lake Road.  15-20 minutes later you will enter the parking area for the Eklutna Lake.  A Chugach State Park fee is required to park here.  Take the trailhead at the east end of the lot and head to the back of the lake.

 
  • Serenity Falls
  • Iron Curtain
  • Dirty Harry Area
  • Miller Might
  • Road to Nowhere
  • Mitre Might
  • Hats Off to Herman
  • 4,000 Miles of Heartache
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    above: Climbers beginning the assault on the Mitre Might.
    photo: Hans Neidig.

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