Ice Guide : Southcentral : South Anchorage : Portage River : First Finger

First Finger

Rating: WI2/3
Length: 50 meters

This is the largest, longest route of the Five Fingers area that consists of a 30 meter wide curtain with the most challenging ice on the right. Climb easy WI2 terrain up to a more challenging 3 to 4 meter pillar on the right side of the curtain. Climb through the pillars, veer left around a good alder to a finish at a good spruce anchor. First Finger can easily accommodate two parties.


Anchor: Many alder bushes and trees exist on the route to set up natural protection for rappel stations. A well-used pine tree exists as an anchor above the pillars on the right side of the curtain.

View Portage River Ice Climbs in a larger map

Lat: 60 47.417' North
Long: 148 54.101' West

Take the Portage Valley Road off the Seward Highway as if going to Whittier. A short 5 minute drive will bring you to a point where the road crosses a small creek. Immediately after the creek crossing take the right-hand turn. If snow levels are high it is common to find a small, plowed parking area. If low snow levels exist take the obvious dirt road back into the trees to the base of a large avalanche chute. The climbs are located to the west of the avalanche chute approximately 250 feet above a small creek. Hike to the base of the climbs.