Ice Guide : Southcentral : South Anchorage : Portage River : Gingus


Rating: WI5/6
Length: 80 meters

This route tackles an imposing left-facing diehedral of usually thin ice and overhanging rock. This is a committing lead and may take the use of rock-pro on the ascent. The route is fairly direct and steep.

FA: Steve Garvey & Paul Wharton

Anchor: Alders exist at the top for rappel. Bring v-thread material just in case.

ALERT: Avalanche danger exists in this area. Know your surroundings and know the conditions!

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Take the Portage Glacier Road from the Seward Highway as if going to Whittier. Drive approximately 4 miles to the Williwaw Camp Ground and parking area. If the lot is plowed park there; however, if the parking area isn't plowed be prepared to drive to the Begich, Boggs Visitor Center (another mile down the road) and approach by foot. From the Williwaw parking area find the obvious trailhead beginning at the south side of campground. (Note: The area may be used sometimes by snow machiners so be on the lookout for traffic.) Hike the trail along a well maintained boardwalk until one finds easy passage through the brush to the Middle Glacier drainage. Hike the drainage upstream into the valley. Pass Luckyman and continue hiking approximately 1000 feet further up the Middle Glacier Valley. The route is found on the west wall and is directly across from Fringe.

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