Ice Guide : Southeast : Haines : Chilkat River : Upper Chilkat River : Mount Raymond : Goat Tiers

Goat Tiers

Rating: WI5
Length: 300 meters, 6 pitches

Climb through 6 pitches of varying terrain of fat ice. Fourth pitch represents the crux with a short push of sheer vertical ice.

FA: Zac Jacobson & Scott Visscher, February 2010

Anchor/Descent: A healthy hemlock exists atop the second pitch. Be prepared to V-thread to descend to the base.

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Lat: 59.638 North
Long: -135.936 West

Approach on the Upper Chilkat River approximately five miles past Blue Cherry. From the south one will notice the climb behind Turtle Rock which appears as an enormous cliff and timbered turtle. Ride around Turtle Rock to the north-northeast. Head for a gap in the foothills on the eastern foot of Mt. Raymond. Motor your way through the birch flats nearly to the mouth of the gap. This is the gateway to accessing the route. At this point one should start hiking by snowshoes. Stay low and maintain an approximate heading toward the climb. (Note: Do not ever get sucked to far upslope thinking there is a path of lesser resistance.) Not far beyond the overhanging crag in the gap (good, fresh water can be found here) be on the lookout for three blazes on trees. One on a birch, two more on smaller hemlocks within sight of the birch lead toward the climb. Hike up the slope well past the blazes to find yourself in yet another mega-boulder-jumbled gap. Once again, try to always stay low except for skirting the blow-down. The gap will gently climb and then spit you out into a broad area of windfall. Pick your way down and around this jack-straw, angling sharper, toward the left (Northwest) heading directly toward the mountain. Keep a heads-up for the "yellow stone", a high-up exposure that can be sighted from the forest floor, and let it be a marker for your direction of travel up the slope as it steepens. However, do not go all the way to the yellow stone. Angle to climber's right and pass a tempting climb on your right. Continue angling climber's right around well above it to the first broad rock faces. Continue on the bench (due east) approx. 150 meters. A good campsite may be found on the bench with a 10-minute scramble to the climb directly above.

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Photo: Scott Visscher