Ice Guide : Southcentral : Kenai Peninsula : Victor Creek : Jacuzzi


Rating: WI3
Length: 20 meters

This route is the actual creek as it waterfalls down into the canyon and is visible from the northern canyon rim. Climb 20 meters of chandeliered ice to the top. Be careful climbing this route as it may be thin due to the large volume of water falling behind it.

History from the FA team:
This is technically the easiest climb in the canyon but made difficult because the water flows behind the ice well after the canyon is totally frozen. The first series of moves was a slightly overhung traverse over the open water to get to the climb. Eugene won the ro-sham-bo and was able to place a short screw in a smear to the right of the traverse. I was able to keep the rope tight and thus keep Eugene sucked into the wall. When it was my turn I had to remove the screw and did not have the help of the rope. Half way across the traverse the only small bird beak of ice that I had for a hold broke. It seemed to take forever for the inevitable to happen but it did. I fell back in to the jacuzzi and sunk like a stone with crampons, rack etc, etc. I don't remember jumping up sticking my tools, climbing the route or removing gear. It all happened in a blur. Skiing back to the car my gore-tex was freezing, it felt like one of those super hero movies where mr.freeze sprays the bad guy and he slowly ceases. Overall, pretty damn fun of water falling behind it.

FA: Eugene Beutler and Bjorn Olson, 1999

Anchor: Bring v-thread material.

View Victor Creek Ice Climbs in a larger map


Begin on the Victor Creek trail which is located at milepost 20 of the Seward Highway. At the trail head decide whether to hike a frozen creek or continue along the trail.

Creek Access - Hike the frozen creek upstream for approximately 20 minutes to the base of this route, which is also where Victor Creek waterfalls down into the canyon. The climb is located immediately left of Victor Creek 6. A large pool of water at the base of this route may make it difficult or hard to access the base of the route Also, watch out as a rarely frozen pool of open water that exists in the creek narrows just past King's Beard. Negotiating this open water may require waders or rubber boots.

Trail Access - Hike the Victor Creek trail approximately 25-30 minutes and either rappel the canyon wall or hike a moderate angle snow gully to the canyon floor. The base of this snow gully is located immediately left of this route.

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