Ice Guide : Southcentral : Matanuska River : Caribou Creek : Kid's Corner

Kid's Corner

Rating: WI3
Length: varies, 3 distinct pitches

This route was named Kid's Corner because the climbers were avoiding their necessary duties as fathers to grab the first ascent. Kid has three main pitches that climb up and back through a narrow gully. In good conditions, the rating on this whole climb can be as difficult as WI3. The first pitch climbs a 40 foot pillar and is probably the crux of the climb. After climbing the first pitch, one must walk back up the gully and over a couple of very short steps to find more of the goods. The second pitch of Kid's Corner is longer than the first but is not as difficult. The last pitch is the longest and is probably as difficult as the first. The finish puts you on top of the ridge with a beautiful view of the surrounding mountains. The finish is definitely worth the effort.

Bonus: If your into the mixed game, don't miss checking out the bolted routes on the rock wall at the base of the climb.

FA: Scott Mignery & Chris Roach, 1990

Anchor/Descent: Alders or trees provide solid anchors on this climb. There are several options for the decent. Several anchors have been established on alders or trees in the gully. But, the easiest decent is a hike out from the finish of the climb. After finishing the climb walk upstream 50-100 feet and look for the trail that leads off to the right. This trail will take you down the ridge back toward the highway. Eventually, the trail meets up with what might be an old mining road that takes you down a gully and back to the Caribou Creek bridge. Obviously, one must plan to carry everything up while climbing to take advantage of this exit. In early conditions, this trail provides access to the climb before the river is frozen.

View Lower Caribou Creek Ice Climbs in a larger map

Lat: 61 48.503' North
Long: 147 41.461' West

The main approach is a 15 minute hike up Caribou Creek. Be on the lookout for the first main creek drainage on the right that is marked by several spruce trees. This climb can be accessed in early season by rappel. When walking next to the road after leaving the car on approach to the river, a gulley ascends on the right. A somewhat obvious trail will take one up the gulley on switchbacks until the ridgeline is found. Follow the ridge until one crosses an obvious creek. Follow this creek downstream until the top of the last pitch is found.

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