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Turnagain Arm Ice Climbs - PFM Wall

Rating: WI3+ - WI5+
Length: 20 - 30 meters
PFM FA: Graham McDonald & Ernie Borjon, 1981*
Coldsnap FA: Bob Crawford & Martin Martinez, 1989*
Slim Jim FA: Steve Garvey & Jim Sweeney, 1988*

Approach: Drive approximately 3.5 miles south on the Seward Highway.  Following the exit to McHugh Creek is a large pullout on the mountain side of the highway.  Park in the pullout then pick your route while your belayer thanks you for getting them out of traffic.

General: PFM Wall (often called Weeping Wall) offers numerous ice and drytool routes for those looking to push the limits.  Rock and ice protection is good to have on hand as these routes are not usually for beginners.    

PFM Route (30m, WI4-5): This route is defined as a large hanging cicle that often requires some drytooling to access.  Once above the cicle, some fat and less difficult ice prevails.  Look for bolts (some rusted and/or covered by ice) on this route for protection and beware of bad rock.

Coldsnap Route (30m, WI4): Often the most obvious route on the PFM Wall, climb the ice traversing left up a steep ramp that meets the top of PFM.  Be prepared as the ice ramp is often narrow and thin in the middle.

Slim Jim Route (25m, WI4): Go straight up from the start of Coldsnap until you get the the alders.

Anchor: Alders exist at the top of a few climbs, so it is recommended to bring v-thread material.

* - Information taken from Fat City and Urban Ice with permission from author.

 
 

above: PFM Wall
photo: Ben Summit

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