Ice Guide : Southcentral : Matanuska River : Pinnacle Mountain : Pinnacle Pillar

Pinnacle Pillar

Rating: WI4+
Length: 30 meters

This climb consists of a dead vertical pillar. The crux starts right off the ground and doesn't let up until the finish. Definitely worth the effort.


Anchor: Alders do exist at the top of this route for anchors or rappel.

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This climb is visible at the northwest base of Pinnacle Mountain and can only be accessed after the Matanuska River has had plenty of time to freeze thick. Park directly across the river from an alluvial fan that is clearly visible at the base of the mountain. Leave the highway and hike down some bluffs to gain access to the Matanuska River. Cross the Matanuska River and head to a creek drainage that is visible on the west side of this peak. Travel up this creek until it begins to narrow and then head east around the front ridge of the mountain until one finds this climb. It is possible to gain access to the top of this route and rap over the top of the pillar. Total travel time is approximately 1.5 hours after leaving the car.

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Photo: Ian Thomas