Ice Guide : Southcentral : North Anchorage : Hunter Creek : Queen of Spades

Queen of Spades

Rating: WI5+
Length: 40 meters

Straight up and in your face almost the entire length of the climb.

From Steve Davis's Hunter Creek Guide, "Route ascends WI2 ice to base of the 150' pillar. Climb pillar. On first attempt, the climbers encountered chandeliered candlesticks which were formed in discreet layers with little but air between them, making ice screw placement marginal at best. Serious hooking and ability to climb a long pitch of vertical or overhanging ice, make this route a modern test piece for south-central Alaska."

FA: Dave Lucy and Harry Hunt, 1997

Anchor: Alders exists, but bring v-thread material just in case.

Alert: Hunter Creek lies in or adjacent to private property areas. It is uncertain if any access issues exist for this area. Check with the local climbing groups within the community to determine the current access issues for this area. Also, vandalism and theft have been high at times in this secluded area. DO NOT LEAVE VALUABLES IN YOUR VEHICLE UNATTENDED.


From the fork, hike approximately 45 minutes to an hour back the right-hand (west) fork of Hunter Creek. Beware of open water and possibly thin ice. The climb is located to the right and is not hard to miss.

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Photo: Jon Cobb