Ice Guide : Interior Alaska : North Parks Highway : Denali National Park : Polychrome Mountain : Rode Hard, Put Away Wet

Rode Hard, Put Away Wet

Rating: WI3/4
Length: 130 meters

This middle route of the three consists of good WI 3 with some WI 5 moves. Steep but short pillars, rotten mixed moves, and enjoyable cruising.

FA: Luke Lohmuller & Bob Shelton, October 2010

Anchor/Descent: Walk off to the left to a steep gulley that takes you back to the base of the routes or rap via v-thread.

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The climbs are on the Southwest flank of Polychrome Mountain in Denali National Park. The road is closed to the public, but access can be had if you know an Inholder in the Kantishna area or can other wise get out to mile 50 on the park road. There is a locked gate at Teklanika, so it is essential to know somebody to do these climbs. At mile 50, look north to the steepest, rottenest part of the mountain where steep gulleys coalesce. You should be able to see ice if the routes are in. Hike up the creek and up the talus to the base of the routes.

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Photo: Luke Lohmuller