Ice Guide : Southcentral : North Anchorage : Eagle River : South Fork Eagle River : The Prism

The Prism

Rating: WI4, alpine mixed
Length: 4 pitches

The route exists on the north face of Triangle Peak and is four pitches, with a snowfield in the middle and a snow climb from the top to the ridge. The first pitch is easy mixed without much ice. The second pitch is rock to a short, fairly steep WI3. The third "pitch" is snow that can easily be simul-climbed. The last pitch is the crux, WI4 and maybe some steep rock, depending on conditions. Picture shows crux pitch. Above that a few hundred feet of steep snow takes you to the ridge.

FA: Matt Porter & Evan Phillips, October 1997

Anchor/Descent: Descent is either rappel the route, or hike east off of Triangle Peak, then north above a large cliff, then follow the creek all the way back to Symphony Lake.

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Lat: 61 08'53.56" North
Long: 149 21'23.62" West

The Prism is on the North Face of Triangle Peak. To approach, ski to Symphony Lake in the South Fork Eagle River Valley. The old shelter on the moraine between Eagle and Symphony Lakes makes a good bivy on the way out or back, or both. From the shelter, walk/ski/snowshoe about 2 1/2 miles up the valley past the end of Symphony Lake. The North Face of Triangle has two large, distinctive gashes that split the face, and The Prism is hidden in a corner to climbers right of them. You can't see the route until you're right below it.

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Photo: Matt Faust