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Homer Bluffs Ice Climbing - True Grit

Rating: WI5
Length: 60 meters
FA: Bill McKenna, Kyle Lints & Wes Kuhns, December 2005

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Warning - Do not get caught in the tide.  Make sure you are aware of the current tides in the Homer area as water levels do rise to the base of the ice on a few routes.

Access: When driving to Homer, turn right off the Sterling Highway onto Saltwater Drive, which is approximately 2 miles towards Homer from the Baycrest Scenic View pullout.  Drive to the end of Saltwater Drive and park.  From the parking area walk approximately half the road distance back towards the Sterling Highway then turn right and hike through the alders until you come to the top of the bluff.  A large tree (an anchor may exist) can be found above the rappel route.  Depending on conditions, you may need to put crampons on at the top of the bluff.  Two 50m ropes will allow you to rappel a safe distance down.  Following the rappel you may then need to walk a bit further to the beach.  At the beach walk north past Sea Wolf to the next major formation of ice.   

Route: As of January 2008 this route is waiting for a second ascent.  In the fall of 2007 this route lost a major portion of the bluffs at the base, which had previoulsly provided more solid climbing.  What is left is a free hanging pillar.  From the beach hike snow/ice to the base of the ice.  Climb a 15 meter vertical and possibly free-hanging pillar to a short curtain above followed by easy climbing to the top. 

Anchor: Alders exists for rappel; however, bring v-thread material just in case.

 

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above: True Grit
photo: Scott Rader

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