Ice Guide : Southcentral : South Anchorage : Whittier : Whittier 4

Whittier 4

Rating: WI4+

This climb is located in the same drainage at Whittier 5 & 6 and is climbers right of Whittier 5. Hike moderately steep snow and rock to the base of the route. Depending on conditions, there may be 2 starts to the climb. The right start is a wide, long, and moderately steep pitch of ice. The left start is shorter and steeper and may require mixed skills at the top. Climb 1-2 more pitches of snow and ice to the top.


Anchor/descent: V-thread material is necessary.

ALERT: Avalanches can and will happen in this area. Know your surroundings and be aware of current conditions.

View Whittier Ice Climbs in a larger map

Lat: 60 45.787' North
Long: 148 40.252' West

From the Seward Highway, take the Portage Glacier Road to the Anton Anderson Memorial Tunnel (aka - Whittier Tunnel). Pass through the tunnel (see Whittier Tunnel for schedule and fees) and continue straight to Whittier. Just past Whittier Creek turn right to cross three sets of railraod tracks. Continue driving up the hill past the run-down Buckner Building then take the first right. Continue driving to the end of the road or until you see the Horsetail Falls Trail sign, which is just before the gate that may or may not be locked. Park at the gate and continue up road to the beginning of the trail, which largely consists of a narrow boardwalk. Depending on snow levels, the boardwalk may not be easy to locate. If unable to locate the trail, simply choose the best route and continue hiking approximately 30 to 45 minutes back to the valley until you reach the climbs.
Send us your video of this climb.